A few days ago, my aunt brought home some Bicol Express from, well, Bicol. It was gata-licious and very spicy! I was very much satisfied and loved it unlike the Bicol Express found in restaurants around Manila aren’t that spicy and as delicious.
I recently learned about “urabang” and that’s what’s possibly missing or different from non-Bicol versions of the dish. What is urabang? It’s “the Bicol version of bagoong alamang where the shrimps are a little bigger.”* Other differences may also be that: 1) the chili is “washed less,” retaining more of its spicy flavor. 2) more chili is actually used and 3) No oil is used. Instead, they are cooked in coconut oil.
Well, just my guess, but I think that’s pretty much it.
(*From a comment by ‘camilo’ at PinoyCook.net)